Times, they are a changin'

One of our last sunsets at Tsaile signifies that we are riding off into the sunset and off the Rez. It will be strange to blog on cranesontherez when we are no longer on the rez. What now? We just moved to Mesa, Arizona, a suburb of Phoenix that is almost as big as the whole city of Albuquerque. Instead of driving 30 miles to the grocery, we have one less than a half mile away. Instead of having the only noise at night being rez dogs, we hear the rumble of the city. Our dogs are in shock and denial and we are in shock and denial, but we are excited about the new challenges and adventures that await us. I begin medical school this week at A.T. Still University.
http://www.atsu.edu
It is an osteopathic medical school, so if all goes well I will end up with a DO degree instead of a MD degree. They have equal standing in the United States. There are still a handful of countries in the world that don't see it that way. The only big difference is that in addition to the traditional medical classes I will also be learning osteopathic principles, which are similar to chiropractic principles. At least 50% of DO's go into primary care whereas less than 20% of MD's go into primary care anymore. This program has a heavy focus on rural underserved healthcare populations. It also has an innovative program where years two through four I will be taking classes in a clinical setting partnered with a community health center. I chose Flagstaff and got it, so next year we will be moving back to the Colorado Plateau where I will continue my education at Flag, one of our favorite towns. I was very fortunate to get accepted. There were over 2000 applications for 118 slots. This seems like a really good fit for me, my background, my interests, my philosophy, and my future goals. Is it the right choice to make these drastic changes in our lives during our 30's that will take a lot of time and money? I don't know. I wish I could say it was a clear calling or a divine plan, but it's not that easy or black and white. A part of me would be content to stay on the Rez forever to teach, coach, and play. But I am very restless by nature. I'm the guy on the river trips always looking for a more dangerous and exciting line through the rapids. I needed something new and challenging that I could use later in service. Our pastor that married us, the late Rick Bond, always encouraged me that God would use my restlessness. I hope he is right, the restlessness has led me here and I trust that God is still in the midst of it. It also goes back to an old dream I had coming out of high school and in my early college years. A dream I gave up on then, but then that path worked out to eight great years on the Rez. Will we go back to the Rez? A part of me would love to, but a part of me would also like to go and serve as a medical missionary in South America or Africa. A part of me wouldn't mind going back to rural Indiana. Alas, there's only one life with only so much time. I'd still like to climb some big mountains from Ranier to the Himalayas. I'd like to canoe a stretch on the Amazon or backpack the pilgrimage of St. James in Europe. I'd like to flyfish in Alaska or bike across the US. I hope one of my favorite authors, John Edredge is right about heaven. He says don't expect it to be just singing in the clouds for eternity, but envision a new earth for eternity where the adventures you weren't able to try in this life you will have forever to try then whether that is exploring the Amazon or tackling K2. Sounds good to me.
In the mean time, I go into this new adventure desiring new skills to someday serve the underserved. I've been too influenced by the likes of Greg Mortenson and Rich Mullins to think any differently. Yet I'm sure the rapids in my soul will not go away and 20 years from now I could very well be on to something else. Time will be the tell.


The fine people of Tsaile gave us a couple of going-away parties. The first one at the Clydes' camp in the Chuska Mountains was done up Rez style with meat over the open fire and Navajo tortillas.


Eddie, the Navajo Johnny Cash, played his guitar as we all sang "The Sweet Bye and Bye".




Judge Clyde held a final sweat for me and had many encouraging words.


Dr. Manning and Dr. Begay were very helpful to me over the past year with my shadowing at the Tsaile Clinic. This was at the Mckees' house for another going away party.


Tracy's dad, the Major, flew in to help us unload in Mesa. He also took us to the air force base to get good deals on groceries and supplies. His generosity is as big as he is.
This is our new home in Mesa. Tracy will be working at the IHS hospital called Phoenix Indian Medical Clinic. I will be commuting to school on my bike five miles one way, which isn't too bad except that the temperature is currently hitting about 110.

Oh yeah, Tracy is pregnant as well, so things are definitely changing.
We appreciate any positive thoughts or prayers you can send our way.

See you on down the road, river, or trail.

Ain't no time like river time

River trips are tough to beat. Whether it is a short ride on a duckie (an inflatable kayak) or an extended journey on rafts, you are in for a good time. The West has some fun, challenging stretches of water that are fairly well protected and regulated through permit systems. There is plenty of flat water where you get a workout paddling or rowing. There is plenty of whitewater where you better know what you're doing or things can go sour quicker than milk left out in the desert sun. On the extended camping river trips, time seems to halt, and the outside world drifts away, or you drift away from it. There is good camaraderie and times for plenty of personal reflection. It's no wonder rivers are often used as metaphors for life.

Phil and I punch through the rapids in our double duck at the Glenwood Springs' whitewater park on the Colorado River. We also did a fun run on the Roaring Fork River (Class 3).


Way back in the blogging "someone" wanted to hear more about that Denny Preisser character. Here he is readying his double duck for our overnight trip on the San Juan from Bluff to Mexican Hat. Denny has taught at Kayenta for at least 12 years. He is the ultimate river rat and known as the legend of the San Juan. There is no one Tracy or I would rather follow down a river. He knows his stuff and knows the river. He is meticulous in his preparation and organization. You are always in good hands when he is on your trip. Denny is also an avid hiker and backpacker who has done the likes of Mt. Ranier and the John Muir Trail. He leads a successful outdoor club at Monument Valley High School that gets the students out in the local area on outdoor adventures. He is making it work, and many, many Navajo kids are enriched because of him. He has been one of our best playmates on the Rez. Thanks Denny!







During our two day San Juan trip, Denny and I hung out with a student group floating with Navajo artist Bahe Whitehorne. We tried to do some water coloring painting along with the group. I would show the results, but you wouldn't be able to tell what the paintings were supposed to be.



Our good friends Ron and Caroline Lucas cool off beside the Mancos River in southwestern Colorado. This wasn't a river trip but a day hike with them and our dogs. Ron and Caroline were the photographers at our wedding five years ago and some of the neatest people we know. They have been park rangers at just about every National Park in the West as well as great science teachers. Ron once had a beer with author Edward Abbey. Enough said.





My last hurrah before the big changes happened on a six day river trip on the Green River. A group of 17 of us floated down through Desolation and Gray Canyons in Utah in rafts and duckies. The rafts can carry a lot of gear, so you don't skimp on food when you go on river trips like this. We ate well and had a great time.



Joe and Connie attack Wire Fence Rapids (class 3) in their double duck. Times like this make all the rowing and paddling through the flat water well worth it.

Congrats to Brian and Holly

Brian and Holly have shown up on the blog often over the past couple of years. I met Brian on an epic river trip through Cataract Canyon in 2005. To steal one of his often used lines, he is "the real deal" when it comes to thirst for adventure, journeying in faith, and relationships. At the end of June, we attended their wedding at just below 10000 feet outside of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. It was a beautiful setting that fused God's Word and God's World. It made sense.

Hernias and Hanging Ladders

On June 10th my mountain biking and other activities came to a screeching halt as I went under the knife for an inguinal hernia repair. I went to a surgeon in Gallup who is an extraordinary mountain biker. He even wrote a mountain biking guide book for the area. There is a trail named after him called "Pete's Wicked Trail." He is wicked on the bike trails and did a wicked job in the surgery suite as well.





I was supposed to take it easy for four weeks, but at about the two week mark an invitation came that I couldn't pass up. The Chinle Service Unit of the IHS was having their annual camp in Canyon de Chelly near Mummy Cave ruins. One way to get to the bottom of the canyon is via the Hanging Ladders Trail. In the 1970's some Navajo Army Rangers came back to the Rez and established this "trail" using their rappel equipment, cables, and ladders. It basically goes down a very steep part of the the canyon. This is another great thing about the Rez; trails like this exist. Anywhere else in the US this would not be allowed. It was quite the trip. Tracy even overcame her fear of heights and came up the trail the day after the camp.

The shortest distance from canyon rim to the canyon floor 800 feet below is straight down the Hanging Ladders Trail.

Tracy forces a smile as she thinks about making the "crux" move.

Shearing Sheep

Since the Spanish introduced sheep to the southwest in the 16th century, the wooly mammals have been as much a part of Navajo life as frybread. The sheep provide mutton as the main meat staple, wool used in Navajo rugs, and various other uses in ceremonies and entertainment. A Navajo family with a healthy flock of sheep is a rich family. Many youth will go into the mountains during the summer to spend time with their grandmas and other family members at their sheep camps. They herd the sheep, shear the sheep, and butcher the sheep. It's all part of the way of life.

A Navajo grandma invited me to her sheep camp to shear sheep. Since I had no experience I enlisted a couple former students. After I picked them up the morning of the shearing, I learned that they hadn't sheared before either. It was hard work with the hand shears that looked like oversized scissors from the 1930's. We managed to shear and knick two sheep in three hours, then the grandma informed us that there were 22 more to go. She fed us some frybread and we went home exhausted. She didn't call us back to finish the job, but it was fun while it lasted.

This family lets everyone know what kind of sheep reside at their residence.

Getting a stubborn ram down to shear is quite the job!


Shane and Dhiedrick try their best with the grandma leading the way.

Can't get enough of...

...Utah!

After a night in Vegas, I was more than ready to get to southern Utah. Our national parks pass more than paid for itself as we traveled through Zion National Park and then camped at Bryce Canyon National Park.





Zion has more backpacking and canyoneering opportunities.









Bryce has spectacular colors that will remain etched in your mind for eternity.

Into Death Valley

We journeyed down from the southern Sierra Nevada Mountains and through Death Valley. The lowest point in the US in Death Valley is about 290 feet below sea level, and the highest point in the lower 48, Mt. Whitney, is only about 100 miles away. America is an amazing place. When we went through the valley, there was a cold front moving through and the temperature was just 85 degrees. It is a beautiful place in its own way.

The stars and stripes flies in Death Valley and reminds us to think about and pray for the men and women serving in "death valleys" abroad. I want to give a shout out to an old friend, Rex Padgett who is serving in Iraq with the Indiana National Guard. We know that he and his fellow comrades are doing their very best.

THE BIG TREES

Next on our California tour was Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. There was nothing real adventuresome or hard-core about the hikes, but this experience was one of the neatest of my life. To walk among the living giants is absolutely startling. It shocks and hushes you. You feel a connection to the ancient past that inorganic rocks can't give. If you're like me, you often make lists of places to see and things to do. Make sure you put walking among the Big Trees in the top ten.

Tracy feeling a wee bit smallish.

The General Grant tree, which is the widest.

Jesse in front of the General Sherman Tree, which is the largest known tree in the world.

Head West, further West

After my trip to Indiana, I connected with Tracy in Phoenix and we headed to California. She had a week long optometry conference in Fullerton. While she was in class, I did some mountain biking and found out what traffic is all about. On our way out we camped and biked at Joshua Tree National Park. Then we traveled down and around the Salton Sea and stopped to visit Salvation Mountain in Niland. You may remember this unique place from the movie "Into the Wild". You have seen this movie by now, right?

I understand why so many people want to live in California. It has just about everything you can think of: different kinds of deserts, beaches, lakes, rivers, mountains, prime farmland, and amazing trees. The traffic though, wow!

In front of General Patton

Camping in J-Tree

On top of Mt. Ryan

Salvation Mountain

Tracy with Leonard Knight, the architect of Salvation Mountain. He talked with us for about 30 minutes, and he kept reiterating that his message was a simple universal one that says, "God is love and he loves everyone, period!"
Isn't that the truth? Why try to add to it or tweak it? God loves you.
Leonard has been living out there in his truck, which is also colorfully painted, for about 20 years getting his message across to thousands.

After the conference we took the Catalina Express out to Catalina Island where my cousin Karl is in charge of the hyperbaric chamber for USC. We biked, snorkeled, and as always learned a ton from Karl. I think he is a genius.

BACK HOME AGAIN

I was fortunate enough to travel back to Indiana the first week of May. In my opinion, May is the best month in Indiana. The bluegill are on the nest. The trees are a vibrant green. The turkeys are gobbling. And you might run into some wild morel mushrooms.




May in Indiana brings to mind some Rich Mullins' lyrics from the song "The Color Green":
"Be praised for all your tenderness by these works of your hands. Suns that rise and rains that fall to bless and bring to life your land. Look down upon this winter wheat and be glad that you have made blue for the sky and the color green that fills these fields with praise."

I was also blessed to hang with family and friends. There are some friends I can go a couple of years without seeing but then when we do see each other it's like we don't miss a beat.

One of the main reasons for the trip was to finally see my new nephew, Cooper Crane. He was a blast to hold and play with.

Zach, Cooper, and Julia are all smiles.

Mom and Dad Crane on the Rez Again

The first weekend of May my parents came out to the Rez for another visit. We sometimes get disappointed that we haven't had a lot of outside visitors over the years, but we understand it takes a lot of time and money to make the trip. After you get the flight into Albuquerque, the closest major airport, you still have at least a 3.5 hour drive ahead of you. So we really appreciate their efforts and cherish their visits to this neck of the woods, or desert.

There are many places to see, but their favorite is Canyon de Chelly in our backyard. We once again did the three mile round trip White House Trail. They get better at it every time! The canyon is a special place of geology, culture, and history. There are hundreds of Anasazi ruins and rock art panels. Navajos still live at camps and ranches in the canyon, and the beauty of it is breathtaking. It is a National Monument, but entry is free to the overlooks and the trail unless you want to drive through the canyon, then you need to hire a guide and have a darn good four-wheel drive.

That weekend Tracy and I also ran in the Shiprock Half Marathon again. Tracy won a first place award for her age group, and I bettered my time by a lot, but the 30 year-old age group is too tough for a mountain biker pseudo runner like myself to place in the top three.

Mom and Dad above Spider Rock

Photo-op along the trail

TREES

Hoosiers often ask, "What's so great about living out there?" There are plenty of replies ranging from the wide-open spaces, the different cultures, the amazing geologic evidence of time and pressure equaling wild rock formations, the serenity and solitude, the adventure, the sunshine, etc. Then the question about trees comes, "Don't you miss the trees?"

Yeah, I miss the trees of Indiana. Off the top of my head I could rattle off five different kinds of oaks, four different kinds of maples, three different kinds of hickories, and at least 20 other species of trees found in the forests and surrounding the fields of Indiana. They are amazing and beautiful. When you drive through the Rez, you will see mainly two types of trees. They make up the pygmy or "PJ" forests. They are the pinons and junipers. Obviously the lack of water narrows the list of possible trees growing in the rocky, sandy, acidic soil of the Rez. If you get away from the roads and search, you will find water and with it more kinds of trees. The evidence of water is everywhere, but the actual site of it is scarce. As author Craig Childs says, "There are two easy ways to die in the desert, dehydration and drowning." When water does come it will most often come in violent thunderstorms and gain more energy and violence as it rushes over the sedimentary rocks and collects in narrow canyons and arroyos. Besides that there are incredibly many springs of water bubbling up from ancient aquifers to the high desert's surface that sustain native plants and animals. Finding spring water or a deep water hole in the desert is a special treat.
As you travel up in elevation, your chances of finding water increase. At around 7000 feet elevation you will begin seeing ponderosa pine trees, which need much more water than the pinons and junipers. At around 8000 feet or so you are likely to start seeing one of my favorite trees, the aspen. The pure white bark of the slender trunks is a brilliant contrast to the brown and green surrounding the aspens. They form clonal colonies by shooting out their roots to form identical trees, so from one aspen tree you could witness hundreds of offshoots. In fact, some scientists say the largest organism in the world is a colony of aspen trees in the Uinta Mountains of Utah. An even more brilliant contrast happens in the fall as their leaves turn startling golds, oranges, and even reds. The slightest breeze will cause their leaves to tremble, and when you stare at several aspen trees quaking in the wind you will think that your mind is playing tricks on you or that you are tripping on something.
The Navajo kids call them "money trees" because the shaking, flat leaves remind them of coins falling or turning.





These "naked" aspens are on a seasonal pond on top of the Chuska Mountains. There aren't nearly as many trees out here as in the midwest, but the high desert is hardly barren.

REZ GAMES

The last week of April and the first of May finally brought warmer temps to the high country on the Rez. Typically winter temperatures last from November until April around the Tsaile area, but this year we saw more snow and felt more cold than any other year in our five plus years at Tsaile.
During the month of April, major league baseball teams just open their seasons, but on the Rez the junior high and high school teams are ready to finish things up. I didn't coach this year, but I did manage to umpire several high school games. Overall the fans and coaches were very gracious to me and my ever-developing umpiring skills. It was much harder than I ever imagined! There were three games I called solo. Now that is an interesting situation.

I wonder if any of our readers out there can correctly define the infield fly rule. That is the true test of a true baseball fan.

One weekend we were invited to play baseball with a family up on top of the Defiance Plateau near Sawmill. It was fun playing amongst the tall ponderosa pines.

Back at our house in Tsaile, we broke out the Bocce ball, one of the world's oldest games, and it was a hit with the local kids.

A play at the plate!

Cody concentrates to get close to the "jack" as Brady looks on in our backyard.